Lifted & Missing Shingles After a Windstorm
If you have lifted or missing shingles after a storm, cover any bare spots with a tarp if rain is imminent, then document the damage with photos before touching anything. Contact your homeowners insurer to open a claim, and schedule a free inspection with a vetted local roofer to assess the full scope — including broken seal strips that won't be visible from the ground. Do not wait for a leak to appear; exposed underlayment can fail within one to two rain events.
Key takeaways
- Missing shingles expose your roof deck fast. Bare underlayment can absorb enough water to rot the deck in a single heavy rainstorm — treat this as urgent, not cosmetic.
- Lifted shingles are often worse than missing ones. A shingle still physically present but with a broken seal strip will admit wind-driven rain on the next storm — and it’s invisible from the ground.
- Document before you repair. Photos and video of the damage — ideally time-stamped and tied to a verifiable weather event — are the backbone of any insurance claim.
- Storm chasers follow the damage. Out-of-state crews flood the area after a big wind event; a vetted local roofer knows regional codes, local pricing, and how your insurer typically handles claims in your market.
- Your deductible is legally yours to pay. No contractor can lawfully waive it — if someone offers to, walk away.
What happens to shingles in a windstorm?
Wind damages shingles in two ways: it either removes them entirely or breaks their adhesive seal strip while leaving them visually in place. The second failure is far more common and far easier to miss.
Every asphalt shingle is bonded to the row below it by a factory-applied adhesive strip. When sustained winds — typically starting around 50–60 mph on older shingles — exceed what that bond can hold, the seal fails. The shingle may flutter and snap back down looking undisturbed, but it’s no longer adhered and will let rain drive underneath on the very next storm.
Fully missing shingles are more dramatic: bare underlayment or raw decking is exposed, and water intrusion can begin with the next rainfall.
How do I know if my shingles are lifted or just loose?
Lifted shingles show recognizable signs from the ground or a ladder:
- Raised or curled corners — one end visibly higher than its neighbor
- A visible horizontal crease across the exposure face — a faint shadow line where the mat fractured
- Misaligned shingles — pushed sideways or out of row
- Tabs that flutter in a light breeze — a bonded shingle should not move in ordinary wind
The definitive check is a physical press: an intact shingle resists firmly; a broken-seal shingle gives or lifts without resistance — which is why an on-roof inspection is the only reliable way to find all the damage.
| Shingle condition | What it means | Urgency |
|---|---|---|
| Missing entirely | Underlayment or deck exposed | Immediate — tarp if rain is coming |
| Lifted edge or corner | Seal strip partially broken | High — will worsen in next wind event |
| Visible crease or buckle | Fiberglass mat likely fractured | High — water can track along the crack |
| Flat but giving to pressure | Full seal strip failure | Moderate — still needs repair before next rain |
| Flat and firm | Likely intact | Low — monitor |
Where should I check first after a windstorm?
Wind forces concentrate at edges, corners, and the ridge — start your visual inspection there. From the ground with binoculars, look at:
- Rake edges (the sloped gable sides) and eave edges — the first-failure zones
- Ridge cap shingles — even one missing cap can channel water down both sides of the deck
- Penetration flashings — chimney, pipe boots, and skylights often lift in the same event
On the ground itself, look for:
- Shingle pieces or tabs in the yard — obvious evidence of missing shingles
- Granules pooled around downspouts — shed from damaged shingles during the storm
- Dented or sagging gutters — metal components confirm how hard the wind hit
What damage can one missing shingle cause?
A single missing shingle creates a gap where water lands directly on the underlayment — which is water-resistant, not waterproof — rather than sheeting off. In a moderate rain event it can allow water to reach the deck within hours. Once the plywood or OSB decking is saturated, swelling and delamination begin; a wet deck section typically needs to be cut out and replaced, adding significantly to repair costs. The next stop is insulation, drywall, and finished ceilings.
The timeline from missing shingle to interior water damage can be as short as one heavy rain event. In winter climates, water that enters and freezes accelerates the damage through ice expansion. Treat missing shingles as urgent, not cosmetic.
Should I put a tarp on missing shingles?
If rain is in the forecast and you cannot get a roofer on-site immediately, a properly installed tarp is a reasonable first step:
- Document before you tarp — photograph bare spots, gutters, and any attic staining. Insurers need evidence of storm-caused damage before repairs start.
- Extend the tarp past the ridge and fasten both sides — a tarp covering only the bare patch can act as a wind sail and cause additional damage.
- Stay off a wet or icy roof — hire someone with proper safety equipment rather than risk a fall.
- Notify your insurer — most policies allow emergency mitigation and reimburse reasonable tarping costs as part of the claim.
How do I file an insurance claim for missing shingles?
Wind damage claims for missing shingles follow a straightforward process, but timing and documentation make the difference:
- Document the storm event — date, time, weather alerts, and photos of all visible damage while it’s fresh.
- Report promptly — most policies require timely notice; waiting weeks lets adjusters question whether damage is storm-related.
- Get a roofer’s written assessment first — a professional inspection before the adjuster visit documents the cause as storm-related and identifies hidden damage like broken seal strips that adjusters often miss.
- Expect to pay your deductible — no legitimate contractor can legally absorb it; claims advertised as “zero out-of-pocket” are a red flag.
- Keep receipts for tarping — emergency mitigation costs are typically reimbursable under the same claim.
In most states you have one to two years to file, but sooner is almost always better — fresher damage is easier to tie to a specific storm, and adjusters tend to be more favorable toward well-documented recent claims.
If a windstorm has recently passed your area, enter your address to check the verified NOAA radar data for your exact location — then connect with a vetted local roofer who can get on the roof and document what the storm actually did, at no cost to you.